Nepal first impressions
30/11/2005
When we approached Kathmandu airport I was amazed how big and built up the city is. I don’t know what I expected but the noise and traffic was at times (and still is) overwhelming even in comparison to Colombo. The houses and clinics however are quiet and the area of Bodhnath, which is traffic free, is an oasis, despite the street sellers drawn to foreigners like iron filings to a magnet. Bodhnath is a Buddhist temple with a huge Stupa and many of the wares on offer are from Tibet. They are remarkably cheap at a few rupees each. When you offer your currency the street seller will say “Tibetan rupees” so far Tibetan rupees have varied from 400 Nepali rupees to one Tibetan rupee to 1900 Nepali rupees! The shops are willing to negotiate “I give you good price” but do not pull the Tibetan rupee stunt.

After a very interesting week visiting clinics with Nepali colleagues I joined a British group and had 6 days trekking in the foothills of the Annapurna region and 2 days at Chitwan Royal National Park. Chitwan is in the Terai region of Nepal, which is the most southerly region and has a warmer climate and jungle vegetation as well as a large plain cultivated and farmed. In Chitwan it was warm, we swam in the pool, travelled along the river by dugout canoe [so silent and smooth, and so many birds including ruddy shell duck migrating from Siberia] and we rode elephants in the jungle and saw rhinoceros, deer, peacocks and an alligator. We also learned how to mount an elephant by stepping onto its trunk and climbing over its head, with its help. (Pictures to follow if technology allows).

The mountains were magnificent but behind cloud much of the day and even at sunrise when we climbed Poon Hill, the cloud only revealed one or two peaks at a time as it travelled past them. This was particularly disappointing for my fellow travellers as whilst they were in Nepal there was cloud every day, which meant it was warmer than we expected but the distant views were obscured. I made some lovely friends on the trek so my thanks to Amanda, Carol, Bevan, Chandra, Ang Domi, Suresh, Dowa and Niren. I hope we will stay in touch.

Homeopathy is alive and well in Nepal, and the homeopaths are so enthusiastic. They are practising in private and low cost clinics. One of these is sponsored by an organisation similar to Rotary. They are getting really good results and word is slowly spreading that classical homeopathy is the route to better health not just relief of symptoms. Most of the low cost work is done at the homeopath’s expense and they are setting up a foundation to further their work and to continue educating and training homeopaths. If your organisation would like a talk about Nepal and/or homeopathy when I get back I will be happy to oblige in return for a donation to their Homeopathic Research and Development Centre.

The weather in Kathmandu is now cloudy and cold. We have sunshine for about 4 hours a day, once it has burnt through the cloud. When it’s shining it is hot in the sun but I find the other 20 hours very cold and the houses are not heated. I am staying with a lovely Nepali family. When I returned from trekking Nilam greeted me with, “Welcome home”. I have been included in their family activities and meals and I went to Priyanka’s school on Sunday to a celebration of 50 years since the founding of the school. Does it sound familiar to my school chums? It was a very grand affair in the presence of the Royal Princess and her children. It was a programme of speeches, singing by the choir, music from the band and Nepali traditional dancing. The finale told the story of the development of and benefits from education for girls. The school, like the one in Galle which everyone aspired to, is a Roman Catholic one run by the sisters but embracing children from all faiths and including teachers from other cultures. Thank you to Prem, Nilam, Prabal, Priyanka and Krishna for making my Nepal visit so much richer.

Well that is all for now. I understand it is snowing in the UK so take care of one another and keep warm. Barbara

Messages from Barbara whilst on her travels.